Our first few days in Japan began in Hokkaido, the northern most island mostly known to westerners for its ski fields and Onsen.
Yes, it would be gorgeous in snow. But I have to say beginning our trip in the “off-season” (early October) provided some much needed calm and serenity.
one: lakeside bliss
We stayed in a traditional ryokan a 20 minute drive from Lake Toya. That day had been warm and we stumbled across a smaller lakeside village. We spent our first afternoon in japan meandering along the lakeside in the sunshine (once we had figured out where to park).
The ryokan was lush and we were four of six westerners. Our biggest anxiety was whether we could wear the provided yukata to dinner (we could).
Onsen are a special experience and I recommend anyone coming to Japan try them. I have never felt so clean and relaxed in my life.
two: volcanic & rural
We spent the majority of the day exploring the volcanic terrain and surrounding village of Jigoku-dani.
It was a perfect introduction to using the three or four phrases of Japanese I know. A coin purse was a much needed purchase — physical cash is abundant here and juggling the coins makes me feel like a child in a lolly shop.
Our accommodation was again traditional with tatami mats and futon beds. There was no shower in the bathroom because guests use the Onsen to clean themselves.
The hotel was located in a small fishing town on the south-east coast of the island. We were likely the only tourists there.
It was quiet and we had dinner at the restaurant in the hotel. I had my first curry of the trip. It was fantastic (as most of the food thus far has been).
three: blooms & cozy forests
We then drove further north to Furano, which in winter transforms into a winter ski paradise. It was pretty stunning when we were there too, even without the snow.
Farm Tomita has become one of those places popularised by the algorithm. Flower meadows stretch across the landscape. In summer it’s lavender, we were treated to colours in sweeping rows.
We checked into our hotel — a very nice place set up to be a ski lodge and then drive out to Ningle Terrace, another one of those instagram popular places. We aimed for twilight so that the village lights would provide a cozy ambience. It didn’t disappoint. Most of the shops were closed, but the gift shop at the entry had some cool things. We bought a coffee scoop, a book illustrated by a local artist and some post cards with small poems in kanji.
Hokkaido is known for its soba noodles so we partook at a local noodle house.
four: return to Sapporo
We finished our time in Hokkaido in Sapporo. A compact little city with plenty of green space.
Coffee is abundant in Japan via the vending machines dotted in every nook and cranny, but espresso is harder to find. We got our first (very longed for) espresso at the cafe in the ground floor of our hotel (Lamp light books hotel), I will begrudgingly admit that it was almost spiritual. My family give me grief for my love of coffee.
We then wandered to a little roastery called Mermaids. The coffee here was also fantastic.
Coffee continues to be a theme as we head to Tokyo next.
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